Whether inhaling the aroma of sizzling steak and fresh herbs or watching luscious chocolate ganache being poured onto opera cake at Thistle & Leek’s open kitchen, diners continue to enjoy this “casual neighborhood refuge” (as the website describes it), as it hits its fifth anniversary.
Chefs / co-owners Kate and Trevor Smith and co-owner Brendan Collins took a chance when opening the Newton Centre eatery during Covid, and the results are a loyal following with repeat customers who recommend it to friends.
Saying she’s had “nothing but wonderful experiences eating here,” Brookline resident Lauren Kaufmann is a frequent customer who previously has enjoyed the chickpea fritter sandwich and the fish tacos. “I’m super happy to support local businesses. [They are] critical to the local ecosystem.”
While Kaufmann enjoyed sunny weather on the restaurant’s inviting patio, other patrons sat in the comfy interior. Newton resident Sarah Catlin and her sister Emily Shanahan, of Wellesley, brought their mother, Brookline resident Sherry Leventhal, for the first time.
Saying she previously enjoyed the spring vegetable salad as well as the lamb meatballs, Catlin said, “they’re delicious … it’s a great local spot.”
Making a dream a reality
The Smiths, who worked as cooks at the storied Craigie Street Bistrot in Cambridge in the early 2000s, like to say they met while “peeling cardoons [artichoke-like vegetables] together.”
Although they found success at that venerable French eatery, “over the years we’d talk about what we would do if it was our own place,” said Kate Smith.
“I wanted to open a restaurant since I was 7,” said Trevor Smith.
Living in Watertown at the time, Kate said they looked for available restaurant spaces knowing “we wanted to be outside of the city of Boston.”
Many businesses closed during the Covid pandemic, including Comedor, the previous inhabitant of the location at 105 Union Street in Newton Centre.
“We liked the space, we love the neighborhood – Newton Centre is so charming,” said Kate Smith about why she, her husband and business partner Collins felt opening Thistle & Leek there was so appealing.
Although the interior of the eatery is very welcoming, during the pandemic initially customers couldn’t come inside and later, they had to be seated six feet apart.
“We sold a ton of food to go,” recalled Trevor Smith. “Thankfully, we picked up a lot of regulars and a lot of fans.”
Grateful for the customer loyalty and resilient staff members, Kate Smith said, “It’s been a rollercoaster … it’s one challenge after another, [but] we’re growing into the restaurant we wanted to be when we opened.”
Recipe inspirations and the future
The Smiths, parents of two, have created a variety of dishes – many of which are vegetarian — for their menu that relate to their life experiences as well as what’s in season.
One item that will likely remain on the menu indefinitely is lamb meatballs with tomato and ginger curry and garlic flatbread.
“My love for curry developed when I lived and worked in England,” said Trevor Smith.
He described another favorite – potato rosti – as somewhere between a latke and a potato cake. It comes with a clam dip inspired by Kate Smith’s grandmother’s recipe and was popular at family gatherings.
Trevor Smith said that he is always eager to hear from vegetable vendors about what’s in season and then dream up ideas about how to use those items in creative ways.
“We just think of [vegetarian items] as other dishes on the menu,” he said.
“We want to make sure there are many vegetarian options even for people who do eat meat,” said Kate Smith.
Trevor Smith’s favorite dish to make and eat – pork schnitzel – is definitely in the meat column.
“There’s something about a beautiful, crisp pork cutlet,” he said, adding he would eat it every day if the doctor would let him.
While the Smiths whip up main dishes, Rhys McAvoy bakes pastries and makes unusual ice cream flavors, including salted miso caramel and mincemeat. She said that the open kitchen design allows for more interactions between customers and staff, which helps build community.
What’s ahead
Looking to the future, Kate Smith said that “as an industry, we’re trying to adapt to changing landscapes.”
The owners are not sure about how the restaurant’s costs may be impacted by tariffs.
“We’re trying not to panic because we just don’t know,” said Kate Smith. “We don’t know what the political, economic landscape is from day to day … it’s hard to work to long-term goals.”
However, she said, “We’re staying the course … and hoping for the best.”
“We’re trying to be the best version of the restaurant that we can … [and] keep doing what we’re doing,” said Kate Smith.
In the near future, the restaurant will be collaborating with Allandale Farm to cook meals for up to 100 people.
The gatherings are a lot of fun, said Trevor Smith, adding the events help support local agriculture. He said to look to the restaurant’s and farm’s social media soon for further information.
